India Revisited: The Virtues of Varanasi

The pre-dawn wake up call came early, and we hustled to the airport, bound for the spiritual capital of the Hindu world. Two hours northeast of Mumbai, on the west bank of the Ganges River, we landed at Varanasi—also known as Benares—and split our group up into small 4WD cars to navigate the traffic-filled and pot-holed roads. Home for the next two nights is the Nadesar Palace, an 11-room gem that was once the British Residency. The house astrologist welcomed us, ceremoniously sprinkling marigold petals and holy water from the Ganges on us as we entered the hotel. We were ravenous and had a delightful lunch, which featured tender greens and veggies from their organic kitchen garden, on the hotels terrace.

This is the city of Shiva, one of the three principle Hindu Gods. According to local myth, the source of the Ganges originates from Shiva’s head and thus has the power to wash away one’s earthly sins. Although there are more than 700 temples in Varanasi, nothing is as holy as the river itself. “Mother Ganga” is worshipped as a living, breathing goddess herself. It is thus not surprising that many devout Hindus from all over India make at least one pilgrimage to Varanasi to bathe in the river and perform a variety of rituals. It was not lost on me that water is revered in more religions than just Hinduism! The old and infirmed come here to die, and it is the ultimate sacred honor to be cremated on the steps called ghats, which are located on the banks of the river. There are over 90 ghats on 7 kms of river, and they are flanked by the shells of stunning, centuries-old palaces that have fallen into disrepair. Every Hindu royal family once had their own palace on the Ganges, but they can no longer afford the upkeep.

We left the tranquility of our hotel gardens and joined the frenetic chaos of the sea of people heading to the river for sunset. Bicycle rickshaws and motorbikes whizzed past us as cows ambled through intersections. Street stalls line the streets and offer everything from branches of neem trees for tooth-brushing to marigold garlands to plastic containers in which to collect the holy water. Naked sadhus held court with their disciples, and eager row-boat captains jockeyed for the chance to take us out on the river. Many men were having their heads shaved on the side walk—a symbolic act of giving up one’s ego before performing a ritual.

We boarded a rowboat and plied the waters upstream to take in the city’s activity from the river. At a quiet ghat, we got out and performed a small puja or ceremony, lighting small candles and setting them afloat on the river. The distant glow of the funeral pyres, which operate on a 24/7 basis in Varanasi, burned within view. Our boat returned to the main ghat so we could witness the evening aarti, which is when prayers and salutations are offered to the river. Oil lamps burned brightly while bells rang, conch shells sounded, and sacred mantras were chanted.

Between the noise, the density of people, and the brightly colored saris that stand out under the spotlights, it is almost an overwhelming sensory experience. We retreated to Nadesar for a delicious bar-b-que of kebobs and a wonderful night’s sleep. (Note: Queen Elizabeth has visited here and actually slept in my room!!)

Half of our group opted for the chance to sleep in, but the die-hards set out at 6 AM to return to the river, which we found an entirely different place. The streets were nearly empty, and it was fascinating to watch the city “wake up.” Mangy dogs and old women huddled around small fires, bicycles served as make-shift news stands, stalls were selling chai (a milky tea), and yogis sat and meditated on the river banks. We approached the river with ease compared to the night before and arrived just in time to see the entire place bathed in the pinky hues of the day’s first light.

Retreating to the hotel for breakfast, we prepared for the trip’s first round of retail therapy. The city’s craftsmen are renowned for textiles, and the finest silk brocades come from Varanasi. Over 400 shades of silk are woven together with silver and gold threads, forming exquisite designs with floral, paisley, and geometric patterns. The finest wedding saris come from Varanasi and command a hefty price!

Varanasi is also sacred to Buddhists. Just a few miles away lies Sarnath, the site where Buddha came in 500 BC and gave his first sermon after gaining enlightenment. Many susipilgrims come here not just to visit the archaeological remains of the monastery that developed here, but also for the museum which contains many beautiful sculptures and paintings.

This evening, we returned to the Ganges and dined on the Chet Singh Ghat in a former royal palace, which was illuminated and festively decorated for our special evening. As we stepped off the boat, we were greeted with fireworks and flower petals strewn everywhere. After a traditional dance program, we dined on “temple food for the Gods,” a strict vegetarian meal amidst the candle light… an evening to remember!

Photos taken by Tarquin Millington-Drake | millingtondrake.com